June 29,2010 Digby, NS

After leaving Ellsworth, ME on Monday noon, we crossed the border at Calais without incident and arrived in St Joseph, NB where we stopped for an early dinner and look around.  It’s a nice little town and we found a restaurant that had an eclectic menu.  There were items from many different ethnicities and all sounded good.  We continued on to St John and arrived before dark at the ferry terminal.  Was expecting the trip to be longer but after playing with the grandkids for 3 days, we were ready for some down time.  We decided to just spend the night at the terminal after okaying it with the staff.  We watched the 8PM Digby ferry leave then later there was a departure at 11PM.  We were scheduled for the noon departure and settled down for some movies and snacks and a dusk walk on the beach.  There were some kids having a drunken bonfire on the beach and had an undisciplined large dog so we didn’t spend much time there. 

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The next morning we lined up in our assigned line at the front of the row as we were the first to arrive. Soon the parking lot was full and loading commenced.  We were surprised when every other row boarded the ferry, even the 18-wheelers were getting on.  We were stuck with a few other overheight autos. The loadmaster came over and explained it all had to do with the height and we would be loaded appropriately according to the ferry deck space.  Although we were nearly the last ones loaded, we were nearly the first ones off, so that made up for the long wait.  Stopped at the tourist info center and got maps and guides shortly after we got off.  Then drove right in to the Digby Campground and found a spot near another Roadtrek from Ontario.  Nice campground within walking distance from town.

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We looked in a few gift shops then found a nice restaurant with an outdoor deck and had some of the famous Digby scallops.  Delicious as I remembered them from 10 years ago.  Lila then had to explore the sailboat docks.  It was interesting to see the ramp down to the docks had a flat surface for half of it and a stairway for the other part.  When the tide is in you can use the ramp part, but when it is out you need the steps.  There is a nearly 30 foot difference between the high and low tides, 

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June 26,2010 Owl Head to Homeport Rockland, ME

Cap’n Noah left the ship early on Baby and went in to the dock at Owl Head.  When he returned, he had his wife, Jane and their son, Oscar with him.  They would join us for breakfast and the sail back to Rockland.  Oscar is a delightful, happy young lad and was happy to see his Daddy.  Our final meal was just as good as all of the others.  Aimee had whipped up turnovers as a appetite whetter, then brought out an egg souffle with corned beef hash.  Soon, Baby was rigged as a pusher boat and we went around the point and made our way back along the breakwater and the large oil drilling rig back to Rockland around 10 AM.

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We said our final farewells and drug our seabags from below and up the gangway back to civilization, leaving behind the oldest sailing vessel in continuous service in the United States.  No more hauling lines to raise sail or working the anchor windlass.

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  No more remembering to turn around before going below.  Or hand pumping the head.  Or any more of Aimee’s fabulous meals or appetizers.  No more Charlie Noble.  Or sunset cannon.  Or Cap’n Noah telling us the history of this port or that lighthouse or island.  No more chatting and joking with all of the other great passengers on this sailing adventure.

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  Until next time……

June 26-28 At Ellsworth

After we left the Stephen Taber, we headed to the Coast Guard Exchange just at the end of the schooner dock.  Just wanted to see if there was anything I couldn’t live without before we headed to Nova Scotia.  It was an okay exchange, but didn’t see anything to buy.  Got the Roadtrek from the parking lot behind the Lindsey House that is owned and run by the Taber’s owners family as a guest house for folks before and after cruises.

We headed north on US 1 and were soon crossing the Bucksport Bridge that we saw from the schooner.  We had already passed the turnoffs for Castine and Fort Point.  Memories of the trip are already swimming in our heads. 

Called ahead to Ellsworth and found out Johanna was working and John and kids were out shopping. We were at Searsport and it was hot and Lila needed to go swimming.  So while I was calling, she took a plunge from a town beach and came back refreshed.  We got to the Marines new home shortly after they arrived.  It was good to see Heather, Gabriel and Levi again.  And John was hospitable, as always.  We hooked up the electricity to the Roadtrek but John said their water wasn’t that great so didn’t hook up the water.  The grandkids were fascinated by the Roadtrek and had to see every nook and cranny.  They were delighted with the two hidden work tables.  And the shower and toilet were especially wondrous to them.  They were disappointed that they all couldn’t sleep with us in the RV.

We met the menagerie.  There’s Quackers, the outside duck with his own pen and duckhouse in the yard.  Then there are the new arrivals.  Three more ducks, 2 turkeys and 3 laying hen chicks in pens in the basement.  They are in the process of starting a mini-farm and this is the core of the livestock.  Plans are being made for raised bed gardens and other improvements for raising food when after they buy the property.  There is a large warehouse/shop beside the house that John will turn into a woodworking shop to make wood items for sale.  He already has a small sideline business going but doesn’t have room to expand and do it right.  The shop will give him space to produce and also have a showroom/sales area.

Turns out their shopping trip was actually yard saling and they had a few new goodies of their own.  After a little show and tell, we planned a simple cookout and headed to the grocery store to get the ingredients to make it happen. 

I noticed that the kids had written welcome messages on the driveway pavement with their sidewalk chalk.  And that they had a new sandbox.  It got filled and they were busy making castles and such until dinner.  Johanna came home and we had hotdogs, hamburgers and veggie burgers over the charcoal fire.  Sat out talking until the skeeters came out.

 

They have become an electronic family.  Everyone has an Ipod or Blackberry except for Levi.  They are always playing a tune or a game or something.  It is a sign of the times and it’s good that they are becoming computer literate early.  It will stand them in good stead later in life.  But, it’s hard for grandparents to come up to their speed with understanding what they are talking about at times.  And to play the games with them….  I did get to understand a couple of the games before we left.

We had a good time getting caught up.  Lila and I retired to the Roadtrek in the driveway for the night.  It was quiet, even though they live right on Hwy US 1A.  Overnight, that is.  Daytime is a different story.  There is highway construction work going on right in front of their house and lots of heavy equipment and dump truck activity all day long.  John and Johanna reported some overnight work at times, too.

In the morning we had a leisurely breakfast and headed to the Ellsworth Park for some playground time. 

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Then off to Blueberry Hill for ice cream.  There is a replica lighthouse and a dinghy there for the kids to play on/in.  Had a good time and the ice cream there is always good.

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The next morning we wanted to make sure we made it to the ferry in New Brunswick for our reservation, so we headed out around noon.  We are planning to stop by again on the way south so parting is not too bad. 

June 25, 2010 Fort Point to Owl Head

I was up early this morning around 0530.  The water was smooth as glass.  Crows ashore calling to each other.  A  solitary loon calls its primeval sound.  The Bucksport Bridge piers are noticeable in the distance.  This is one of only 3 bridges in the world with an observation tower built in to the bridge tower.  The view reported is magnificient including a lot of the offshore islands and up to Mount Katadhin.

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Aimee is already in the galley; smoke from the Charlie Noble wafts around the deck. Crew up and removing the awning.  Night lanterns down and ready to be stowed for the day.  Soon the colors are raised and the banners and pennants, including the Gumby flag.  Then breakfast:  Hard-boiled eggs, sticky buns (best ones I’ve ever eaten.)

 

We were regaled with the story of the Gumby last night.  It seems that this week is the homecoming week for many.  Some have been taking annual cruises for 18 years.  They have been returning the same week and enjoying each other during mid-June annually.  During one of the cruises, someone brought aboard a small Gumby doll.  It became the mascot for the cruise.  Then over later years, larger and larger Gumby’s appeared until at one point a life-sized Gumby ended up in the chef’s bunk.  It survived for several years until it became too worn to sail.  The flag was added somewhere along and is raised daily during the homecoming cruise.  It did suffer a little damage during this sail and will be getting some needed repairs before next years’ sailing.

Well, It’s Friday and we only have one night left on the cruise.  So, we’re sailing south on a westerly wind towards home port.  Saw 5 other schooners today at one time.

We had Black Bean Chili with woodstove ovenbaked cornbread for lunch.  The wind continued during this beautiful day and we sailed past Rockland down to Owl Head harbor.  This is a working lobster boat harbor and there was activity from lobstermen coming in at the end of the day and again in the morning when a few went out. 

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Another tradition of the Stephen Taber is to have a turkey dinner on the last night of the sail.  We were treated to the full works!  There was turkey, dressing, mashed potatoes, apple sauce, broccoli, and cookies.  It was a feast and we all stuffed ourselves.  Then Cap’n Will and Max, one of the newer crew members, brought out guitars and played a few songs.  Others shared stories or jokes or magic tricks.  Notably Fred with his folk songs. And David with his story of the sailor and the tailor’s daughter.  It was fun watching the knots appear in the red string. 

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I mentioned earlier that the Taber traditionally fires the cannon every night at sunset as they are lowering the colors.  I had been attempting to capture this image every night, probably doing my ears damage in the process. On the last night I finally had the timing down and caught the flash of the cannon blast as it was fired.  I noticed the crew members took turns firing the cannon and wore hearing protection. 

June 24, 2010 Castine to Fort Point

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In to shore early for a walk around town.  Lots of Victorian houses and historic signs. Fort George ruins above town.  Location of a major defeat during the Revolutionary War.  Lost the most ships until Pearl Harbor.  Paul Revere, artillery officer,  disgraced.  Battle of Penebscot Bay.  Nice museum in town. Dr Wilson was lucky his mother built it for him to house his extensive collections from his world travels as a geologist and anthropologist.   Also home of Maine Maritime School and there are ships and school buildings evident. 

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We had a lunch of Ham and Cheese sandwiches with a special sauce then set sail north on a southerly breeze up the Penebscot River towards Bucksport.  Ran wing on wing.  Noted no lobster pots.  The salt water is lighter than fresh.  There is a river current running below the salt water.  The lobsters can’t live in the fresh water on the bottom.  Stopped off of Fort Point State Park near the Mary Day out of Camden.  We put up the canopy and had Fried Risotto Balls, cheese, crackers, and Chianti for an appetizer.  Cap’n Noah rigged the sail on Plain Jane and took several out for a sail. 

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We noticed some Mary Day folks diving from their bowsprit.  Out crew climbed the ratlines and dove off of Taber.  I dove off the rail.  None of the other  passengers went swimming.  The water sure was cold.  I dove a few times and swam directly to the ladder to get back aboard.  The crew had assembled the on-deck shower and it was time for a nice hot shower after the brisk swim. 

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Then it was time for Pasta with meat or tomato sauce for dinner.  There was Lemon Ginger Custard for dessert.  Aimee still delighting us with her culinary expertise.  We enjoyed a nice sunset; red sky at night, sailor’s delight.  Nice conversations til dark and to bed.

June 17-19,2010 From Home to Fourth Cliff RV Park, MA

We left home late so we could stop at Eastport for the Thursday concert at the Annapolis Maritime Museum.  It was a special tribute to Tom Wisner who passed away earlier this year.  Tom was a great song writer, environmentalist and lover of the Chesapeake Bay and all of its waters.  We got to Eastport and ate at the Davis Pub on 4th St.  It is one of our favorite stops in Eastport.  Good beer, good food, and we sit outdoors and watch the boats go by. 

Got to the concert just as it began and really enjoyed Tom’s songs being sung again.  Hope they will be sung for a long time.  He did some great stuff.  Met Mary Ellen, one of our fellow volunteers at Flag Pond and Cypress Swamp, there and had a nice chat at intermission.  Concert had to stop at 8:30 due to some weird rules.  The bars can run their jukeboxes til 0145 but the live music at the museum has to stop early.  Got on the road north and traffic across the Bay Bridge was light.  Filled up with gas on the Jersey Turnpike around 10 PM and decided since traffic was light, to try the George Washington Bridge and stay on 95. Big mistake.  Got to the bridge around midnight and made it across just fine, but then we ran into the night construction.  I thought at one time we were going to merge down to NO lanes.  We finally got through along with all of the 18 wheelers and stopped in CT at a park and ride lot around 0230.  It was peaceful enough until the commuters started arriving early.  I got up and headed to the Burger King across the street for coffee and we hit the road around 8. 

Got to Fourth Cliff RV Park around noon and got a great site facing the North River beside one of the few other occupied sites.  When they came back from town we were napping.  Got up and discovered it was another Roadtrek 190.  They are from Key West and he was a Navy Corpsman with the 4th Marine Division in Viet Nam.  We compared RT stories and they travel a lot of the same places we do.  It is nice to meet new people and get to talk to them.  Had a nice sunset and the view from our site is perfect to watch sunsets. 

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Fourth Cliff is uniquely situated on a spit of land located between the Atlantic Ocean just north of Cape Cod Bay and the New Inlet of the North and South Rivers.  There is the opportunity for real ocean activities: beachcombing, surf fishing, swimming and such.   But on the freshwater side there is also a lot of activity.  Lots of power boats use the inlet, there are gravelly flats that provide habitat to marine life, shallow swim beaches, more fishing opportunities.  We were able to go out at low tide and harvest 2 small batches of mussels which really made a great appetizer while we were camped there.  It is fun to watch the sand dollars and crabs in the clear water.

June 20, 2010 Rockland and the Stephen Taber

 

We left Fourth Cliff behind after 2 nights and arrived at Rockland, ME around midday Sunday.  We were early so just went down and met a couple of the crew that were preparing the boat and loading groceries into the large ice chest on deck.  The smaller one on the right is for passenger use; beer and wine and sodas and such.  Wandered around the pretty seaport town and repacked for our voyage then reported on board at 4PM and got our cabin assignment.  No 4 had to be the smallest cabin on the boat.  We had enough standing headroom for one of us to stand at a time.  And the double bed was under the deck so there was barely room to sit up in bed and I had to crawl over Lila to get out.  There was a sink and mirror and a glass over the bed to let in some light from the deck.  We met the captain at 6 for a brief safety briefing and met the crew.  We were free to go in town to eat, then sleep aboard and our first meal aboard was breakfast the next morning and sailing shortly after that. We all went to Jimmy’s Pearl Restaurant (he was a former customer of the Stephen Taber that liked the area so much he bought a restaurant and stayed.) Lila and I ate with David and Susan, and Fred and Cami.  We met Jimmy on the way out and he was appreciative of the business and the referral from Cap’n Noah. The Stephen Taber is on the left, J&R Riggin in the middle and the Nathaniel Bowditch on the right.  Taber and Riggin left at the same time.  We were on a 6 day cruise, Riggin on a 3 day one. 

Met a fellow ham radio operator and we set up a schedule to try to talk on our handy talkies daily but I couldn’t get mine to work right.

The meals were prepared on a very old woodstove by Aimee, who is a genius of a cook.  She made the trip very worthwhile with her great meals.